A guide to Literary Bournemouth in the 19th Century

Beginnings
At the start of the 19th century, the poet Southey had spoken of seeing only “desolation” here, but within twenty years a town had been founded on Bourne Heath and made its literary debut in a satiric local playlet about the area’s main economy: smuggling. Bournemouth’s central chines (wooded ravines down to the beach) were smugglers’ routes, and the area appears in earliest guise in local stories of Isaac Gulliver, the legendary King of Smugglers who eluded arrest by Captain Tregonwell’s Rangers and retired into wealthy respectability, while Tregonwell became official founder of Bournemouth, with the start of a planned township around 1810.
Sir Percy Shelley
The town itself really arrived on the literary scene only after the late poet Shelley’s son had a home built here, Boscombe Manor, for his ailing mother Mary Shelley, widow of the poet and herself author of Frankenstein. She did not live to see its completion in 1851, but it became the home of her son and his wife, Sir Percy Florentine Shelley and his wife Lady Jane, both enthusiasts of the arts, he writing plays for their in-house theatre and she overseeing publication of the poet’s verse, letters and official biography. It was the world’s only Shelley Museum until it was closed in 2001 due to dilapidation. It also held a literary shrine seen by many a distinguished London visitor, where the poet’s heart was kept in a casket. Later the heart was re-interred along with the bones of her free-thinking parents William Godwin (author of Political Justice) and Mary Wollstonecraft (author of A Vindication Of The Rights Of Women), in a family tomb in St Peter’s Churchyard in the centre of Bournemouth.
Thomas Hardy
Thomas Hardy visited the town when shopping for a matrimonial home in 1872, calling it “a city set in a garden” and “a complete and extensive watering place ... a city of detached mansions”. It is a setting in his The Hand of Ethelberta (1876) and Tess of the D’Urbervilles (1891). He remarked that “on the very edge of that tawny piece of antiquity (Hardy’s beloved heath), such a glittering novelty as this pleasure city had chosen to spring up ... a Mediterranean lounging-place on the English Channel”. He concluded: “The pines, the chines, steeply-rising cliffs, parks, gardens, heathlands, amusements, esplanades, sands, and sprawl add up to the strange unique character of Bournemouth. A fascinating, pine-scented phenomenon”.
Paul Verlaine
On his release from prison for shooting his fellow poet and teenage lover Rimbaud, the French Symbolist poet Paul Verlaine taught French in 1876-7 at a Westcliff school (originally where the Cadogan Hotel now stands in Poole Road), living quietly, writing two local poems (in his Amour and Sagesse), “Bournemouth” and “La Mer de Bournemouth”.
John Galsworthy
In the 1870’s John Galsworthy sang in the school choir of St. Swithun’s Church, attending for 5 years an Eastcliff prep-school called Saugeen nearby (now the site of the Majestic Hotel, Derby Road) gaining a local connection that would help inspire his Forsyte Saga based on a Swanage family.
Lillie Langtry
After 1877 in Eastcliff lived the “Queen of the Variety Stage” who was destined to find more fame as a character in dramas than as a writer (as well as her memoir The Days I Knew she reputedly wrote, as Lillie de Bathe, a novel called All At Sea). Here at The Red House in Derby Road, Edward VII kept his mistress Lillie Langtry - a secret kept until the 1978 ITV drama serial Lillie, when it became a hotel named after her, and supposedly haunted by her.
R L Stevenson
As elsewhere, there was a Scots colony early on, with George Macdonald (author of The Princess and The Goblin etc.) preaching in Boscombe from 1875. This aspect met up with the town’s spa identity with the arrival of Robert Louis Stevenson in 1884. He and his American wife Fanny and his stepson Lloyd-Osbourne, who was at school here, first stayed at the Highcliffe Hotel and various boarding-houses, then settled in Westbourne in a house his father bought him. His only English and last British home, “Skerryvore” was blitzed in 1941 and the site is now a Memorial Garden. This was a productive period for him, for between 1884 and 1887 he wrote A Child’s Garden of Verses, Kidnapped, Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and four other books. He also kept a special chair ready for the American ex-patriate Henry James, who came here to visit his sister, and wrote of the town’s spa aspect in his 1893 story (reprinted in The Oxford Book of American Short Stories), “The Middle Years”.
Beatrice Webb
Beatrice Webb, who with her husband Sidney co-founded the Fabian Socialist movement and The New Statesman, was associated with the town from 1875, having her first writing accepted while living, for three winters from 1886, at a now-demolished boarding-house on the clifftop just east of the Pier. In later life, when they were established in London, they would return to stay at the Highcliff Hotel.
Oscar Wilde
Local rumour has it Oscar Wilde used to “Bunberry” down for weekends at the five-star Royal Bath Hotel, which now has an Oscar’s Bar as well as a Disraeli’s Restaurant, for another famous name on its registers was that of Benjamin Disraeli, the novel-writing PM, sent here in 1874 for his gout by Queen Victoria to benefit from the “very salubrious air”. Named after the hotel’s owner, the adjacent Russell-Cotes Museum has mementos of such visits. Wilde’s former illustrator Aubrey Beardsley, already dying of TB in his early twenties, adopted the town as his last English home, staying first at Boscombe’s Pier Hotel in 1896-7. After suffering a haemorrhage while out walking, he moved to the recently demolished Cheam House off Bournemouth Square. converting to Catholicism at Sacred Heart Church (Richmond Hill). Despite his ill-health he continued producing illustrations which were a key part of the English Aesthetic Movement.
Rupert Brooke
Rupert Brooke spent so many holidays here 1895-1907 that a local plaque where his grandfather’s house stood claims he “discovered poetry” here. He was one of many who made comparisons with the French Riviera, heading a 1907 letter, “Bournemouth, South of France”. The town’s invalid-spa aspect also evoked the youthful Romantic’s fascination with imagining one’s own death. In this “strange place which is full of moaning pines,” he wrote, “with other decrepit and grey-haired invalids I drift wanly along the cliffs”. Instead of “dying while a friend read Baudelaire,” he worried “I shall expire vulgarly at Bournemouth, and they will bury me on the shore near the bandstand.” He still returned as an adult until his 1914 departure overseas, attending Holy Trinity Church.
Compton Mackenzie
In 1899, the future author of Whisky Galore, Compton Mackenzie, was sent here to recuperate from school at the Westcliff Hydropathic Hotel, leading to two chapters of his first successful work, his two-volume coming-of-age 1915 cause-celebre novel Sinister Street.