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A
guide to Literary Bournemouth in the 19th Century
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| Beginnings |
At
the start of the 19th century, the poet Southey had spoken
of seeing only “desolation” here, but within
twenty years a town had been founded on Bourne Heath and
made its literary debut in a satiric local playlet about
the area’s main economy: smuggling. Bournemouth’s
central chines (wooded ravines down to the beach) were smugglers’
routes, and the area appears in earliest guise in local
stories of Isaac Gulliver, the legendary King of Smugglers
who eluded arrest by Captain Tregonwell’s Rangers
and retired into wealthy respectability, while Tregonwell
became official founder of Bournemouth, with the start of
a planned township around 1810. |
| Sir
Percy Shelley |
The
town itself really arrived on the literary scene only after
the late poet Shelley’s son had a home built here,
Boscombe Manor, for his ailing mother Mary Shelley, widow
of the poet and herself author of Frankenstein.
She did not live to see its completion in 1851, but it became
the home of her son and his wife, Sir Percy Florentine Shelley
and his wife Lady Jane, both enthusiasts of the arts, he
writing plays for their in-house theatre and she overseeing
publication of the poet’s verse, letters and official
biography. It was the world’s only Shelley Museum
until it was closed in 2001 due to dilapidation. It also
held a literary shrine seen by many a distinguished London
visitor, where the poet’s heart was kept in a casket.
Later the heart was re-interred along with the bones of
her free-thinking parents William Godwin (author of Political
Justice) and Mary Wollstonecraft (author of
A Vindication Of The Rights Of Women),
in a family tomb in St Peter’s Churchyard in the centre
of Bournemouth. |
| Thomas
Hardy |
Thomas
Hardy visited the town when shopping for a matrimonial home
in 1872, calling it “a city set in a garden”
and “a complete and extensive watering place ... a
city of detached mansions”. It is a setting in his
The Hand of Ethelberta (1876)
and Tess of the D’Urbervilles
(1891). He remarked that “on the very edge of that
tawny piece of antiquity (Hardy’s beloved heath),
such a glittering novelty as this pleasure city had chosen
to spring up ... a Mediterranean lounging-place on the English
Channel”. He concluded: “The pines, the chines,
steeply-rising cliffs, parks, gardens, heathlands, amusements,
esplanades, sands, and sprawl add up to the strange unique
character of Bournemouth. A fascinating, pine-scented phenomenon”. |
| Paul
Verlaine |
On
his release from prison for shooting his fellow poet and
teenage lover Rimbaud, the French Symbolist poet Paul Verlaine
taught French in 1876-7 at a Westcliff school (originally
where the Cadogan Hotel now stands in Poole Road), living
quietly, writing two local poems (in his Amour
and Sagesse), “Bournemouth”
and “La Mer de Bournemouth”. |
| John
Galsworthy |
In
the 1870’s John Galsworthy sang in the school choir
of St. Swithun’s Church, attending for 5 years an
Eastcliff prep-school called Saugeen nearby (now the site
of the Majestic Hotel, Derby Road) gaining a local connection
that would help inspire his Forsyte Saga
based on a Swanage family. |
| Lillie
Langtry |
After
1877 in Eastcliff lived the “Queen of the Variety
Stage” who was destined to find more fame as a character
in dramas than as a writer (as well as her memoir The
Days I Knew she reputedly wrote, as Lillie
de Bathe, a novel called All At Sea).
Here at The Red House in Derby Road, Edward VII kept his
mistress Lillie Langtry - a secret kept until the 1978 ITV
drama serial Lillie, when it became a hotel named after
her, and supposedly haunted by her. |
| R
L Stevenson |
As
elsewhere, there was a Scots colony early on, with George
Macdonald (author of The Princess
and The Goblin etc.) preaching
in Boscombe from 1875. This aspect met up with the town’s
spa identity with the arrival of Robert Louis Stevenson
in 1884. He and his American wife Fanny and his stepson
Lloyd-Osbourne, who was at school here, first stayed at
the Highcliffe Hotel and various boarding-houses, then settled
in Westbourne in a house his father bought him. His only
English and last British home, “Skerryvore”
was blitzed in 1941 and the site is now a Memorial Garden.
This was a productive period for him, for between 1884 and
1887 he wrote A Child’s Garden of Verses,
Kidnapped, Dr Jekyll and
Mr Hyde and four other books. He also kept
a special chair ready for the American ex-patriate Henry
James, who came here to visit his sister, and wrote of the
town’s spa aspect in his 1893 story (reprinted in
The Oxford Book of American Short Stories),
“The Middle Years”. |
| Beatrice
Webb |
Beatrice
Webb, who with her husband Sidney co-founded the Fabian
Socialist movement and The New Statesman, was associated
with the town from 1875, having her first writing accepted
while living, for three winters from 1886, at a now-demolished
boarding-house on the clifftop just east of the Pier. In
later life, when they were established in London, they would
return to stay at the Highcliff Hotel. |
| Oscar
Wilde |
Local
rumour has it Oscar Wilde used to “Bunberry”
down for weekends at the five-star Royal Bath Hotel, which
now has an Oscar’s Bar as well as a Disraeli’s
Restaurant, for another famous name on its registers was
that of Benjamin Disraeli, the novel-writing PM, sent here
in 1874 for his gout by Queen Victoria to benefit from the
“very salubrious air”. Named after the hotel’s
owner, the adjacent Russell-Cotes Museum has mementos of
such visits. Wilde’s former illustrator Aubrey Beardsley,
already dying of TB in his early twenties, adopted the town
as his last English home, staying first at Boscombe’s
Pier Hotel in 1896-7. After suffering a haemorrhage while
out walking, he moved to the recently demolished Cheam House
off Bournemouth Square. converting to Catholicism at Sacred
Heart Church (Richmond Hill). Despite his ill-health he
continued producing illustrations which were a key part
of the English Aesthetic Movement. |
| Rupert
Brooke |
Rupert
Brooke spent so many holidays here 1895-1907 that a local
plaque where his grandfather’s house stood claims
he “discovered poetry” here. He was one of many
who made comparisons with the French Riviera, heading a
1907 letter, “Bournemouth, South of France”.
The town’s invalid-spa aspect also evoked the youthful
Romantic’s fascination with imagining one’s
own death. In this “strange place which is full of
moaning pines,” he wrote, “with other decrepit
and grey-haired invalids I drift wanly along the cliffs”.
Instead of “dying while a friend read Baudelaire,”
he worried “I shall expire vulgarly at Bournemouth,
and they will bury me on the shore near the bandstand.”
He still returned as an adult until his 1914 departure overseas,
attending Holy Trinity Church. |
| Compton
Mackenzie |
In
1899, the future author of Whisky Galore,
Compton Mackenzie, was sent here to recuperate from school
at the Westcliff Hydropathic Hotel, leading to two chapters
of his first successful work, his two-volume coming-of-age
1915 cause-celebre novel Sinister Street. |
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